Texas Kayak Fisherman - Kayak Fishing the Lone Star State!

TKFStubb Article from - Kayak Fisherman Magazine, Fall 07 issue
This is the last in a series of articles giving you a serious look at what it takes to come to the Gulf Coast and catch your fair share of quality Redfish ON ARTIFICIAL LURES. So far, we have discussed habitat, tides, water quality, structure, and lure choices. In this issue, we'll discuss the biggest differences between catching Redfish from a static position like a power boat, shore, jetties, or wadefishing and catching them from a kayak. This may be the biggest revelation of all to most of you and to some, it will come as no surprise at all. If you have never seriously fished for big Reds from a kayak, then you have a real treat in store for you! Let's discuss the rods, line, reels, and terminal tackle needed to wear these monsters down. I must admit, this has been one of the most enjoyable subjects that Iâ€™ve written about in some time. With all of our previous tournament experience relating to catching a "Grand Slam", that is, at least one fish in each of the three prevalent sport species; speckled trout, flounder, AND redfish, the other two species always seemed to overshadow the redfish. However, with the advent of redfish only tournaments in the last couple of years, this species has taken on a whole new level of importance. I remember that not long ago, it wasn't 'kosher' to target redfish, or even legal for awhile, because the populations had been all but decimated. Then, in the '80's what is now the CCA (Coastal Conservation Association), started lobbying for tougher laws and limits to allow this great gamefish to rebound. Banning nets and other harsh practices also has helped this bruiser to rebound to the populations that we enjoy today. Nowadays, it's pretty easy to go to the coast and actually TARGET one of the nastiest fighters ever to slam a lure. Anglers who go after these beasts from shore have to upsize their tackle choices quite a few notches just to get the four-eyed monsters to even THINK about saying uncle. Pool cue action rods, bailing wire size line, and terminal tackle that will choke a horse have become standard with shore fishermen up and down the coast. HOWEVER , the kayakfisherman has a distinct advantage in that we can use the kayak itself as a huge piece in the redfishing puzzle. We and our kayaks can actually become the drag system, wearing down 20-30 pound redfish in a relatively short time. This also allows us to use lighter rods, reels, and line to accomplish the seemingly impossible. Just last week, I was able to land a 16 pound, exceptionally mean redfish on 10# Trilene Big Game, a light action Kistler Tails and Topwaters rod, and a 1/8 oz Norton Bull Minnow lure. This is one of those feats that you are tempted to add the disclaimer, "kids, do not try this at home", but with the use of a kayak and a good quick-release anchor system, it is fairly easily accomplished by just about anyone. Here's the skinny on equipment... Remember, this applies to Kayakfishing ONLY... What we commonly call "Bass Tackle" is plenty heavy enough. Rods. My favorite rods are the Kistler Tails and Topwaters, or their Cajun Special. These rods have the backbone to get a good hookset but are still light enough to throw the lures we discussed in the last issue. Others that you might consider are the AllStar TWS and the American Rodsmiths Kayak Extreme Redfish Special. Whenever possible, I like to use a handle no longer than 7" for good PFD clearance. These are casting rods and I must admit that I favor casting tackle for reds just because I can get better leverage on hooksets and on the short bursts of speed that redfish are famous for. There is another rod to consider if you are going to be throwing larger baits like topwaters and spinnerbaits. It is the AllStar WR1. This rod has sustained me through years of BASS tournaments as well as being my favorite spinnerbait rod of all time. Reels. Here at TKF we have just finished a year-long field test of some of the most popular mid-priced light and medium casting reels. All of these reels proved to be adequate for catching and landing Redfish, but a couple stood out as superior performers. At the top of the list is Abu-Garcia's Revo SX and STX. These reels, despite their super light weight, have the muscle to handle Redfish in the 10 to 30 pound range IF YOU ARE FISHING FROM A KAYAK. The line capacity is not as much as the next reel we'll discuss, but its smoothness and ability to throw very light lures as well as make the 1,000 cast per day necessary to do well in tournament fishing, make this my first choice for my Redfish arsenal. The other reel I really like is the Shimano Citica 200D. With a 6.2:1 ratio, it still has the cranking power to bring a spinner bait up next to the surface AND the line capacity to handle extra long runs. You'll rarely see more than 50yds of line peel off before you can get your anchor released and your boat turned around, but in case you hit a glitch in this process, that extra 150yds MAY come in handy. Both of these reels have super smooth drags that you will surely appreciate. My favorite combo is the Revo STX mounted on my Kistler Tails and Topwaters rod with 15# Trilene Big Game line. Other reels that did well in our field test were the Ffluger President, Daiwa Coastal, Okuma VS200, and Cabela's Prodigy PR200RH. When talking about GREAT redfish reels, we can never forget about the highly prized Shimano Bantam 200 and 200 SF as well as the Calcutta TE 100GT, up to the 250GT, all super fine redfish reels. Spooled with the proper line, all of these reels will make you PROUD! Line. Here's where the arguments begin. Personally, I think it is a matter of personal taste whether you use one of the super braids or monofilament. Some will disagree saying that if you don't use braided line, you will never be "all you can be". Some will say that braids are for sissys who can't feel their way out of a paper bag. Somewhere in between, there those of us who say to match the line to the conditions you usually fish. I reserve braided line for those times when the bite is especially hard to discern and there is nothing to get wrapped around or rubbed up against. Braids are especially vulnerable to chafing and cutting. Barnacles, oysters, rocks and anything else that you might rub up against can take you from 80# test to nothing in a split second. Monofilament, on the other hand, may soak up enough "feel" as to make a light strike imperceptible. The first scenario is MOST LIKELY when fishing for redfish. If you are in Redfish territory, you WILL be around barnacles and oysters. And, it is very unlikely that you will not fell a redfish strike. Your uncle in Kansas may not feel it strike, but YOU and your immediate family WILL! For reasons discussed in the last article, they don't give just a peck...they EXPLODE into your bait with such bone-jarring ferocity that hanging onto your rod and reel is the only thing that might be difficult. For these reasons, I prefer to use quality monofilament line in 10 to 15 pound test. Quality does not necessarily mean expensive. Because there is likely to be a lot of line changing going on because of excessive stretching and abrasion, you might consider larger (1/4# or at least 300yd) spools of line. For this reason, I mostly use Trilene Big Game. Buy from a place that sells a lot and you'll be able to get fresh line that has not been exposed to fluorescent light for too long. I always discard the first couple of layers from a new spool anyway, just in case. Ande, Stren, Damyl, and PLine make some good choices as well. A good rule of thumb in selecting which pound test to use is your favored selection of lures. Light lures match up with the lighter lines. For instance, if you prefer to throw swim baits in the 1/8 to 1/4 oz range, then maybe 12# test line might be your choice on a light reel and that Kistler Tails and Tops rod. If you like to throw topwaters or spinnerbaits, maybe 15# test on a littler heavier rod might suit you better. My "go-to" outfits are the Revo STX spooled with 12# Big Game on my Kistler Tails and Tops rod AND the Citica 200D spooled with 15# Big Game on my AllStar Zell Rowland Topwater Special (TWS). Between these two outfits, I can go all day, catching and releasing hefty Redfish (if conditions and luck prevail). Terminal Tackle. If you know me well, you probably know that I use snaps and snap-swivles when Iâ€™m trying to locate fish because I change lures often when Iâ€™m doing this. But, when I'm serious about catching redfish, I forego the luxury of changing lures quickly for tying directly to my lures with a Trilene knot. or the Perfection loop. Animated Knots If I'm in an area with lots of shell, I'll use 18s of 20 to 25# fluorocarbon leader behind an Ausie wind-on swivel. The area that I'm currently learning has very few shell pads so I just tie directly to my lures. If you think you can get away with using a snap or snap-swivle, go ahead and tryâ€¦I did. You may get away with it...I didn't. IF the fish was landed at all, the snap would be so mangled that I dare not tryi using in again. I hope these three articles have helped you to feel more comfortable targeting probably one of the most exciting species ever to tug on a kayakfisherman's line...the mighty and mighty tasty Redfish! More importantly, I hope these articles find their way into your databank of stored information that you'll find useful for the rest of your fishing career! That would be the ultimate compliment! Fish hard and practice good conservation by releasing all that you can't eat! Tom, TKFStubb, Stubblefield of http://www.texaskayakfisherman.com

TKFStubb Article from - Kayak Fisherman Magazine, Fall 07 issue

This is the last in a series of articles giving you a serious look at what it takes to come to the Gulf Coast and catch your fair share of quality Redfish ON ARTIFICIAL LURES. So far, we have discussed habitat, tides, water quality, structure, and lure choices. In this issue, we'll discuss the biggest differences between catching Redfish from a static position like a power boat, shore, jetties, or wadefishing and catching them from a kayak. This may be the biggest revelation of all to most of you and to some, it will come as no surprise at all. If you have never seriously fished for big Reds from a kayak, then you have a real treat in store for you!

Let's discuss the rods, line, reels, and terminal tackle needed to wear these monsters down. I must admit, this has been one of the most enjoyable subjects that Iâ€™ve written about in some time. With all of our previous tournament experience relating to catching a "Grand Slam", that is, at least one fish in each of the three prevalent sport species; speckled trout, flounder, AND redfish, the other two species always seemed to overshadow the redfish. However, with the advent of redfish only tournaments in the last couple of years, this species has taken on a whole new level of importance. I remember that not long ago, it wasn't 'kosher' to target redfish, or even legal for awhile, because the populations had been all but decimated. Then, in the '80's what is now the CCA (Coastal Conservation Association), started lobbying for tougher laws and limits to allow this great gamefish to rebound. Banning nets and other harsh practices also has helped this bruiser to rebound to the populations that we enjoy today. Nowadays, it's pretty easy to go to the coast and actually TARGET one of the nastiest fighters ever to slam a lure. Anglers who go after these beasts from shore have to upsize their tackle choices quite a few notches just to get the four-eyed monsters to even THINK about saying uncle. Pool cue action rods, bailing wire size line, and terminal tackle that will choke a horse have become standard with shore fishermen up and down the coast. HOWEVER , the kayakfisherman has a distinct advantage in that we can use the kayak itself as a huge piece in the redfishing puzzle. We and our kayaks can actually become the drag system, wearing down 20-30 pound redfish in a relatively short time. This also allows us to use lighter rods, reels, and line to accomplish the seemingly impossible. Just last week, I was able to land a 16 pound, exceptionally mean redfish on 10# Trilene Big Game, a light action Kistler Tails and Topwaters rod, and a 1/8 oz Norton Bull Minnow lure. This is one of those feats that you are tempted to add the disclaimer, "kids, do not try this at home", but with the use of a kayak and a good quick-release anchor system, it is fairly easily accomplished by just about anyone.

Here's the skinny on equipment...
Remember, this applies to Kayakfishing ONLY...

What we commonly call "Bass Tackle" is plenty heavy enough.

Rods.

My favorite rods are the Kistler Tails and Topwaters, or their Cajun Special. These rods have the backbone to get a good hookset but are still light enough to throw the lures we discussed in the last issue. Others that you might consider are the AllStar TWS and the American Rodsmiths Kayak Extreme Redfish Special. Whenever possible, I like to use a handle no longer than 7" for good PFD clearance. These are casting rods and I must admit that I favor casting tackle for reds just because I can get better leverage on hooksets and on the short bursts of speed that redfish are famous for. There is another rod to consider if you are going to be throwing larger baits like topwaters and spinnerbaits. It is the AllStar WR1. This rod has sustained me through years of BASS tournaments as well as being my favorite spinnerbait rod of all time.

Reels.

Here at TKF we have just finished a year-long field test of some of the most popular mid-priced light and medium casting reels. All of these reels proved to be adequate for catching and landing Redfish, but a couple stood out as superior performers. At the top of the list is Abu-Garcia's Revo SX and STX. These reels, despite their super light weight, have the muscle to handle Redfish in the 10 to 30 pound range IF YOU ARE FISHING FROM A KAYAK. The line capacity is not as much as the next reel we'll discuss, but its smoothness and ability to throw very light lures as well as make the 1,000 cast per day necessary to do well in tournament fishing, make this my first choice for my Redfish arsenal. The other reel I really like is the Shimano Citica 200D. With a 6.2:1 ratio, it still has the cranking power to bring a spinner bait up next to the surface AND the line capacity to handle extra long runs. You'll rarely see more than 50yds of line peel off before you can get your anchor released and your boat turned around, but in case you hit a glitch in this process, that extra 150yds MAY come in handy. Both of these reels have super smooth drags that you will surely appreciate. My favorite combo is the Revo STX mounted on my Kistler Tails and Topwaters rod with 15# Trilene Big Game line. Other reels that did well in our field test were the Ffluger President, Daiwa Coastal, Okuma VS200, and Cabela's Prodigy PR200RH.

When talking about GREAT redfish reels, we can never forget about the highly prized Shimano Bantam 200 and 200 SF as well as the Calcutta TE 100GT, up to the 250GT, all super fine redfish reels. Spooled with the proper line, all of these reels will make you PROUD!

Line.

Here's where the arguments begin. Personally, I think it is a matter of personal taste whether you use one of the super braids or monofilament. Some will disagree saying that if you don't use braided line, you will never be "all you can be". Some will say that braids are for sissys who can't feel their way out of a paper bag. Somewhere in between, there those of us who say to match the line to the conditions you usually fish. I reserve braided line for those times when the bite is especially hard to discern and there is nothing to get wrapped around or rubbed up against. Braids are especially vulnerable to chafing and cutting. Barnacles, oysters, rocks and anything else that you might rub up against can take you from 80# test to nothing in a split second. Monofilament, on the other hand, may soak up enough "feel" as to make a light strike imperceptible. The first scenario is MOST LIKELY when fishing for redfish. If you are in Redfish territory, you WILL be around barnacles and oysters. And, it is very unlikely that you will not fell a redfish strike. Your uncle in Kansas may not feel it strike, but YOU and your immediate family WILL! For reasons discussed in the last article, they don't give just a peck...they EXPLODE into your bait with such bone-jarring ferocity that hanging onto your rod and reel is the only thing that might be difficult. For these reasons, I prefer to use quality monofilament line in 10 to 15 pound test. Quality does not necessarily mean expensive. Because there is likely to be a lot of line changing going on because of excessive stretching and abrasion, you might consider larger (1/4# or at least 300yd) spools of line. For this reason, I mostly use Trilene Big Game. Buy from a place that sells a lot and you'll be able to get fresh line that has not been exposed to fluorescent light for too long. I always discard the first couple of layers from a new spool anyway, just in case. Ande, Stren, Damyl, and PLine make some good choices as well. A good rule of thumb in selecting which pound test to use is your favored selection of lures. Light lures match up with the lighter lines. For instance, if you prefer to throw swim baits in the 1/8 to 1/4 oz range, then maybe 12# test line might be your choice on a light reel and that Kistler Tails and Tops rod. If you like to throw topwaters or spinnerbaits, maybe 15# test on a littler heavier rod might suit you better. My "go-to" outfits are the Revo STX spooled with 12# Big Game on my Kistler Tails and Tops rod AND the Citica 200D spooled with 15# Big Game on my AllStar Zell Rowland Topwater Special (TWS). Between these two outfits, I can go all day, catching and releasing hefty Redfish (if conditions and luck prevail). Terminal Tackle.

If you know me well, you probably know that I use snaps and snap-swivles when Iâ€™m trying to locate fish because I change lures often when Iâ€™m doing this. But, when I'm serious about catching redfish, I forego the luxury of changing lures quickly for tying directly to my lures with a Trilene knot. or the Perfection loop.
Animated Knots

If I'm in an area with lots of shell, I'll use 18s of 20 to 25# fluorocarbon leader behind an Ausie wind-on swivel. The area that I'm currently learning has very few shell pads so I just tie directly to my lures. If you think you can get away with using a snap or snap-swivle, go ahead and tryâ€¦I did. You may get away with it...I didn't. IF the fish was landed at all, the snap would be so mangled that I dare not tryi using in again.

I hope these three articles have helped you to feel more comfortable targeting probably one of the most exciting species ever to tug on a kayakfisherman's line...the mighty and mighty tasty Redfish! More importantly, I hope these articles find their way into your databank of stored information that you'll find useful for the rest of your fishing career! That would be the ultimate compliment! Fish hard and practice good conservation by releasing all that you can't eat!

Tom, TKFStubb, Stubblefield of http://www.texaskayakfisherman.com

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