Newbie baitcaster question

[TxAquatics]

Gotta baitcaster rod question. I picked up a shimano slx reel and shimano glf saltwater 6.9ft medium fast rod recently. My first baitcast setup, I'm pumped. I found out that academy does have the 7.0 ft medium rod available, which I did not know of. Contemplating exchanging rods. Primarily to be used from the kayak inshore, occasionally wade fishing, and pond hoping.

Question 1, will the 3 extra inches really improve casting distance; 6.9ft vs 7.0ft?
Question 2, the 6.9ft should have a stiffer backbone for inshore hooksets?
Question 3, would you exchange rods, 6.9ft for 7.0ft? I'm still in the 30 day window.
Thanks for your input!!

[Neumie]

I guess it depends on where they added the 3" difference. If it's in the butt then you're still effectively fishing the same length in front of the reel, but the added butt length could help in fighting the fish. If the 3" was added in front of the reel seat then it'll throw lighter lures farther.

Personally, all my baitcasters are either 6'6" or 6'9", I don't really like longer baitcasters as an artificial thrower. Slinging bait, I would want a 7'0" or longer rod. Not sure why, but that's what I like.

I fish from a 15' long kayak and don't really have issues with shorter rods.

[SWFinatic]

IMO the 6' 9" can be better than the 7 with slightly better accuracy which can be key when sight casting. I would stay with the 6' 9".

[karstopo]

Is this a critical choice? I’d say no. If you can hit your spots with the 6’9” rod, then maybe keep it. If your curiosity about the 7’ rod is so great, then get that one. I only fish one baitcasting set up these days and that rod is 6’7”. It will chunk a big skitterwalk a mile, but that’s more on the reel than the rod. Generally, I’m trying to cast 15-25 yards with a 1/16 ounce jig head rigged with a paddle tail inches from sharp shell, hitting the dinner plate sized target, so I’m not looking to blast out 50 yards of line anyway.

People can fish the exact same water in multiple ways. If your thrill is to cast as far as you can, then assemble a rod and reel and line combination that allows for that. If it’s pin point accuracy, then go for that. If turning big strong fish from danger is a premium, then get that rod. If you are worried about pulling the hook from delicate trout mouths, go for a rod that serves that end.

A lot of people pick rods that are pretty good at several things, but maybe not the best in every attribute.

[Ron Mc]

if you want to get distance, every inch helps in increasing line speed (distance increases with the geometric cube of line speed).
I like fast ML rods with soft tip for lure action finesse.
Casting finesse improves with shorter rods.
If the backlash is in question, eliminate every fraction of jerk from your cast - smooth acceleration is everything in baitcasting.

[imaoldmanyoungsalt]

I like 7' rods personally. I get longer casts and better leverage for fighting fish.

[TxAquatics]

The choice is only critical in the monetary sense, I got a pretty good deal at academy. I don't want to be buying all these rods, since I'm only a once a month fisherman. Plus I'm still learning the casting basics. Just yesterday I turned off 2 of the 6 brakes, eased off the spool tension and got a good 65-70 feet with an overhead cast, no backlash. I have 2-7 foot medium spinning rods and 1 light 6.6 foot spinning rod. So 7 foot is a norm for me. I just hate having the extra option there 6.9 or 7 foot, lol. Thanks for the feedback, I'm gonna keep practicing my cast this week and if I like it, I'll stay with what I've got. If anything I can pick up a used 7 ft rod down the road.

[OrangeQuest]

Get the basics down on how to cast correctly and with accuracy . Try short distances first then as you can hit the same spot regularly, that includes throwing into the wind, increase your distance. While doing this learn what you need to adjust for the wind direction and conditions. If you will be casting from your kayak you may want to do this sitting down. Even if you can only get on the water a time or two a month you can still practice. Before to long you will answer your own questions about a bait caster.

[katt72]

Get the basics down on how to cast correctly and with accuracy . Try short distances first then as you can hit the same spot regularly, that includes throwing into the wind, increase your distance. While doing this learn what you need to adjust for the wind direction and conditions. If you will be casting from your kayak you may want to do this sitting down. Even if you can only get on the water a time or two a month you can still practice. Before to long you will answer your own questions about a bait caster.

I'm somewhat new to baitcasters. As Orange quoted, get the basics 1st.

The choice is only critical in the monetary sense, I got a pretty good deal at academy. I don't want to be buying all these rods, since I'm only a once a month fisherman. Plus I'm still learning the casting basics. Just yesterday I turned off 2 of the 6 brakes, eased off the spool tension and got a good 65-70 feet with an overhead cast, no backlash. I have 2-7 foot medium spinning rods and 1 light 6.6 foot spinning rod. So 7 foot is a norm for me. I just hate having the extra option there 6.9 or 7 foot, lol. Thanks for the feedback, I'm gonna keep practicing my cast this week and if I like it, I'll stay with what I've got. If anything I can pick up a used 7 ft rod down the road.

I bought my baitcaster's seperate from my rods. I purchased (2) 7' rods, MedFast rated (1/8-5/8), and MedHvy rated (1/4-3/4). MF, is for my light jigs, soft plastics, small lures. MH, heavy jigs, large plastics, topwater. Another plus, when you're fighting a fish that may do the run around the yak. A long rod, paired with a short arm person, is a plus!

[OrangeQuest]

One more thing, those first baitcaster rod combos come in handy later on when you bring a buddy or have young kids you want to introduce to baitcasters. They are great learning tools.