Head cement problems

StuckInTheMud · Post by **StuckInTheMud** » Fri Jan 30, 2004 4:28 pm

I've got some head cement that I've been struggling with. I don't know what brand it it, so I might have the cheapy stuff, but after having it a while the stuff starts to gum up much like if it was half dry. This might be the problem, of just having it too long and it is actually drying out. I've had it happen before and i just chunked the bottle and bought a new one. Just wondering if any of yall have this problem or if I'm just using a sub par brand of head cement. I usually coat the heads with a thin layer of epoxy when they dry anywho, but I usually use it as a glue to hold stuff as i go along.

-Stuck

M-D · Post by **M-D** » Fri Jan 30, 2004 5:00 pm

Depending upon the formulation of the particular cement, one can add an approriate solvent and thin what is there. Look on the label and there should be something regarding what solvent is used. If not, smelling it is often a good way to tell. A common solvent used is MEK, methyl ethyl ketone. Whatever you use, take a small amount of cement and test for compatability with your cement. If it thickens, or clabbers, you'll know it wont work.

The thin cement does help to soak into the threads and bond things together a bit better. I've always used head cement on any fly I tie, though I do use different types of cement for different things.

M-D

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Fri Jan 30, 2004 6:10 pm

StuckInTheMud
About 8 years ago I got tired of the same thing happing to me. It seemed like I spent an awful lot of time adding thinner to the head cement, especially during the summer when it was hot. So I stopped using solvent based head cements and started using a Polyurethane interior/exterior Varnish thinned 15%-25% with water. Some of the good things about using this is there's no odor, it doesn't evaporate as quickly as solvent based head cements, and when it does, I just add a few drops of water to it, it penetrates well and dries glossy. I buy mine in the craft dept. of Wal-Mart. The brand I've been using is Delta Ceramcoat Gloss Interior/Exterior Varnish and it's under $2.00 for 2 oz's, which last me a year or so.

let's go · Post by **let's go** » Fri Jan 30, 2004 7:23 pm

I've been using the Loon brand head cement for the same reasons Barry just gave. It's water based and has no odor. It seems to work just fine.

www.loonoutdoors.com

Barry's Dad · Post by **Barry's Dad** » Sat Jan 31, 2004 12:40 pm

Howdy stuck

I am a Sally Henson kind of guy. I buy the "Hard as Nails" nail polish from Wal Marts. $2.00 (cheap) :wink:

When it gets too thick I toss it and buy some more. It comes with its own brush too. If you can keep it closed it last better that 60 mo. and still does a good job.
I would say that super glue makes a better as-you-go glue. Drys faster. BE SURE TO HAVE YOUR BOBBIN ABOVE THE FLY WHEN ADDING GLUE. It seams to run right into the bobbin and holds the thread fast. :oops:

ol Al

fredtoo · Post by **fredtoo** » Sun Feb 01, 2004 11:14 pm

the solvent head cement usually goes hand in hand with an equal size bottle of head cement thinner, so it sounds like your head cement is doing pretty much what the manufacturer expects it to !

I am gonna try some of the water based products recommended here...I hate working with gloppity stuff...including "white-out" that has gunked up. hard to finish a nice looking fly with a big glop of thick glue on the end of it !

fredtoo

kc kulhanek · Post by **kc kulhanek** » Tue Feb 03, 2004 3:21 pm

I used to use head cement quite a bit, but I now use ZAP-A-GAP religiously. The stuff is hard as a rock and for the toothy critters in the bays, 2 coats on the head of a clouser holds like a champ and dries nice and clear. (If you don't mind the super glue smell)

fredtoo · Post by **fredtoo** » Tue Feb 03, 2004 4:24 pm

I love the Zap a Gap too, for all kinds of things...but it does tend to set -p and get all hard and crusty around the cap and threads...any solutions for that?

livetofish · Post by **livetofish** » Tue Feb 03, 2004 6:27 pm

spray some wd-40 on the inside of the cap and around the threads the first time around. Keeps it from getting gummed up.

fredtoo · Post by **fredtoo** » Tue Feb 03, 2004 9:29 pm

good idea Live, will give it a try.

thanks,
fredtoo

Dave Speer · Post by **Dave Speer** » Wed Feb 04, 2004 7:52 am

If you can find a safe place for it on your tying bench, leave the zap-a-gap uncapped. It won't dry out. I tried this after a discussion on another board, and I never had to fiddle with cutting off a crust of superglue again.

On that board the issue of smell came up... I've got a VERY sensitive sniffer... I get extreme headaches working with stuff like silicone even in WELL ventilated areas... and I never had a problem. Cap it if you are transporting it, but for every-day use you might try just leaving it on the desk.

fredtoo · Post by **fredtoo** » Wed Feb 04, 2004 9:57 am

now that is amazing to me, cause the Zap A Gap even comes double capped !!

but sounds like the ultimate solution, I will certainly give it a try.

I take my cap off to you,
fredtoo

TexasKayakFisherman.com

Head cement problems

Head cement problems

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leave zap-a-gap uncapped