I've got a 4x6 utility trailer. I'd like to be able to fab up some removable uprights to mount the kayaks too without sacrificing any floor space on the trailer. The total height has to stay under 6 feet so the trailer can still be backed up into the garage.
So, show me some pics of your trailers so I can steal the ideas
Also, I've been wondering, what's the risk of a kayak breaking free of the trailer (even with bow/stern lines) during an accident? I drive a Jeep, and the only thing between me and the kayak is a plastic window (and it's not even on most of the year).
I've been a member here for a long time and never looked at the albums
I like Boiler's idea, I've got a PM in to him.
Thanks for the PM preach, but I've only got a 4x6' trailer to work with, and only need to haul 2 yaks. If I had more I'd be picking your trailer apart though.
I just bought a 4x6 myself. I want removable kayak/equipment racks so I can use the trailer for other things. Will carry two kayaks as well.
Is it absolutely necessary to replace the tongue with a longer one? Mine will be towed with a Nissan Maxima, so I was thinking I could allow the kayaks to overlap the trunk. Am I overlooking anything?
I read somewhere that 2 ft. is maximum overhang. With a 6 ft. trailer, I'd have approximately 4 ft. on front and rear overhanging, if transporting a 14 ft. yak. Please tell me this is ok.
Also, regarding weight distribution, I also read that the rear wheels are supposed to be about 6 inches behind the center of mass for proper weight distribution. Of course, you can relocate the mass to get this right, but you can't control the kayak's weight distribution, so proper design from the outset is important. Does anyone have technical specs on this so I can factor it in when I design my rack?
I think 18" is the maximum overhang but you can exceed this as long as you have a red flag? Not sure but that's what I have always gone by. I have an 8' landscaping trailer we welded a "field goal" type of post onto the front of and the overhang is not too much even with a 14' yak.
You are allowed 4' overhang before it has to be lighted. I found that information on the texdot website when I built mine. I used a 4x8 trailer and have only a little over 2' on each end since our longest yaks are 12 1/2'. But we extended the tounge about 3 1/2' to clear the truck. Ours is over 6' tall but we also haul bikes in it too.
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Those are some nice trailers. Fuzzy, I like the low profile - is that a 4x8? It also looks like you're overhanging the kayaks a bit. And I can't quite make out how you're anchoring the kayak supports. Can you PM me with a few more pics?
Also, anyone have a good rule of thumb for kayak thickness (not the length or the width, but the third dimension that's usually not in the specs)? Someone told me to allow 20 inches.
I'm thinking about doing something similar to Fuzzy's design without going outside the base trailer, but if I use 20 inches, I'll only be left with 8 inches in the center - not much room for additional storage. That will probably force me to go outside the trailer.
I did a quick analysis to look at the effect of changing tongue length on the tongue weight. There's a rule of thumb that says the tongue weight should be about 10-15% of the load. I used 15%.
For my trailer, the distance from the axle to the hitch is 6 ft. For that length, the center of the load should be placed just under 11 inches forward of the axle to give 15% of the load weight at the hitch.
If I increase the distance from the axle to the hitch to 9 ft., the load should be centered just over 16 inches forward of the axle to keep the tongue weight at 15%. If I keep the load at just under 11 inches forward of the axle, the tongue weight drops to 10% - still within the rule of thumb.
But, the tongue weight is very sensitive to the load placement. A load placed too near the axle (by about 5 inches in this case) resulted in a 1/3 reduction in tongue weight. If you place the load on the axle, the tongue weight goes to zero. If you place the load behind the axle, the tongue weight becomes negative - the trailer is trying to lift itself off the ball.
For versatility, I plan on changing tongue lengths. I'll probably etch some marks in the side of the trailer to show where the load center should be for each tongue length.
BTW, this analysis applies to any single axle trailer. Although note that I didn't account for the weight of the trailer itself in this simple analysis.
Thanks for the pics, Fuzzy.
Last edited by BayYakker on Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.
I ran a poll about trailer size in another thread. It looks like those of us with 4x6 trailers are in the minority. I also researched the law and found out that it's probably because we're breaking the law (technically) in many cases.
At best, a 14 ft. kayak will overhang both the front and rear of a 6 foot trailer by 4 ft. The reg. says 3 ft over the front and 4 ft over the rear are legal. My main kayak is over 14 ft long, so I guess I'm going to be a "scofflaw." Oops, that's what I get for doing research after the purchase. Please don't tell my wife!
But here's the question, since I can't possibly satisfy the front and rear overhang requirements at the same time, which one should I choose? I would think that keeping the rear overhang within the legal limit, while exceeding the front overhang regulation is the best compromise.
if you move your yaks forward you may have the yaks to close to the tow vehicle. Be careful you don't hit it in a turn. I am working on extending the tongue on my 4x8 trailer just to help my 14 ft kayak fit.
Why cant you just figure out how much more trailer you need and fabricate a new tail light and plate bracket to extend the rear of the trailer? It can be bolted on if you dont have a welder. This is how we carry 5 bikes, 5 kayaks and all the gear for them and still take the 5th wheel.
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I'm beginning to favor the design that centers the kayaks on the trailer. If the (two) kayaks are stacked over the center of the trailer and not set on the sides of the trailer, there will be more available turning angle for a given tongue length. I'm thinking that if I extend the tongue by about 3 ft. and center the kayaks over the trailer, I won't risk hitting them during a turn.
Of course, this design may create more drag than the lower profile designs, which require a longer tongue for a given turning angle. But the further away from the rear of the vehicle the trailer is, the more drag you tend to get. It's why bicycle racers stay so close behind each other.
