Flounder
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Flounder
When will the flounder run begin.
Thanks, JEM
Thanks, JEM
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- Night Wing
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Re: Flounder
When zombies walk from house to house for candies and thousand of turkeys are baked!Hardcorewadefisherman wrote:When will the flounder run begin.
Thanks, JEM
i always rig a flounder rig and hook them on the tail so that gives them some movement to atract the flounder.barditch wrote: Okay! Here's a really dumb question. How do you hook your finger mullet when you're fishing for flounder? I've always used a modified carolina rig with a 2 ft. leader and hooked 'em behind the anal fin, but I'm really open to better suggestions, 'cause I'm sure not catchin' my share!
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Night Wing wrote:I think it depends on the temperature of the water. The last couple of years, the flounder run has been terrible. Not really a run.
Almost. It's water temp with more influence from ratio of daylight to darkness. You're right, though. The "run" last year wasn't really. I've no explanation for that.
Only hook through tail if you are keeping your bait still. This is not the most effective way to fish for flounder.
Here's why.... Flounder are the most extreme of the ambush predators. They'll only hit something 4" or so away on most days (they do actively hunt, but this is an exception, not the norm). Once your bait has been sitting in a spot for more than 5 seconds or so, chances are a flounder is not going to just come across it. Trout and reds actively hunt, and the chances are better that they will come across your stationary bait, but not flatfish.
My point is that you should be slowly moving your offering to "scour the bottom" for flounder. The tail rig will be pulling your mullet/killifish backwards, looking unnatural and shortening the life of your bait.
Hook your baitfish through both lips. Include some of the bony portion of the top of the head, but don't put it far enough back to brain your bait. I hook bottom-to-top so the point is riding up because I feel this reduces snags but this probably isn't that important.
Retrive slow. I like to hop my bait in slow hops of one foot or so, followed by about 3 seconds of pause in between. Some people drag them on the bottom with success.
I use a "fishfinder" rig which is what I think ya'll are calling a carolina rig. Good thing about this is that the sinker threads freely along the line, and a flounder that picks up the bait and moves will not feel the resistance of the sinker (provided you are in freespool or have the bail open).
Everyone knows this, but mabey some don't Don't set the hook on feeling the "thump" of the flounder hitting. They seize the bait, then work it around in their mouth before swallowing. Premature hooksets will lose you alot of fish. I feel the hit, then count slowly to 10. I will then gently test the bait if I'm unsure it was a flounder (mabey pinfish). If it still feels solid, or I was initially very sure it was a flounder, I will finish the count to 30, reel in slack, and give a firm hookset (braided line helps all of this).
For fighting your fish, my biggest tip is keep tension on him. Flounder have a vicious headshake, and a flexible rod tip and attention to not giving slack will help. Try to keep the head underwater as you will definently see the headshake if you pull it up. Land with a net, as a boga needs an open mouth (headshake anyone?). I get 'em in the net ASAP, often as soon as they appear if I can.
One last thing, I've gone to using artis excluisively for flounder. Mostly for the whole covering more water thing. I like the yum brand "samurai curltails" becuase they have great action at low speeds. I tip with a piece of squid and they never let go. Gulps work well too.
Come on fall run
Here's why.... Flounder are the most extreme of the ambush predators. They'll only hit something 4" or so away on most days (they do actively hunt, but this is an exception, not the norm). Once your bait has been sitting in a spot for more than 5 seconds or so, chances are a flounder is not going to just come across it. Trout and reds actively hunt, and the chances are better that they will come across your stationary bait, but not flatfish.
My point is that you should be slowly moving your offering to "scour the bottom" for flounder. The tail rig will be pulling your mullet/killifish backwards, looking unnatural and shortening the life of your bait.
Hook your baitfish through both lips. Include some of the bony portion of the top of the head, but don't put it far enough back to brain your bait. I hook bottom-to-top so the point is riding up because I feel this reduces snags but this probably isn't that important.
Retrive slow. I like to hop my bait in slow hops of one foot or so, followed by about 3 seconds of pause in between. Some people drag them on the bottom with success.
I use a "fishfinder" rig which is what I think ya'll are calling a carolina rig. Good thing about this is that the sinker threads freely along the line, and a flounder that picks up the bait and moves will not feel the resistance of the sinker (provided you are in freespool or have the bail open).
Everyone knows this, but mabey some don't Don't set the hook on feeling the "thump" of the flounder hitting. They seize the bait, then work it around in their mouth before swallowing. Premature hooksets will lose you alot of fish. I feel the hit, then count slowly to 10. I will then gently test the bait if I'm unsure it was a flounder (mabey pinfish). If it still feels solid, or I was initially very sure it was a flounder, I will finish the count to 30, reel in slack, and give a firm hookset (braided line helps all of this).
For fighting your fish, my biggest tip is keep tension on him. Flounder have a vicious headshake, and a flexible rod tip and attention to not giving slack will help. Try to keep the head underwater as you will definently see the headshake if you pull it up. Land with a net, as a boga needs an open mouth (headshake anyone?). I get 'em in the net ASAP, often as soon as they appear if I can.
One last thing, I've gone to using artis excluisively for flounder. Mostly for the whole covering more water thing. I like the yum brand "samurai curltails" becuase they have great action at low speeds. I tip with a piece of squid and they never let go. Gulps work well too.
Come on fall run
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Very well said Milkjug, almost anyone should be able to catch flounder nowMilkjug wrote:Only hook through tail if you are keeping your bait still. This is not the most effective way to fish for flounder.
Here's why.... Flounder are the most extreme of the ambush predators. They'll only hit something 4" or so away on most days (they do actively hunt, but this is an exception, not the norm). Once your bait has been sitting in a spot for more than 5 seconds or so, chances are a flounder is not going to just come across it. Trout and reds actively hunt, and the chances are better that they will come across your stationary bait, but not flatfish.
My point is that you should be slowly moving your offering to "scour the bottom" for flounder. The tail rig will be pulling your mullet/killifish backwards, looking unnatural and shortening the life of your bait.
Hook your baitfish through both lips. Include some of the bony portion of the top of the head, but don't put it far enough back to brain your bait. I hook bottom-to-top so the point is riding up because I feel this reduces snags but this probably isn't that important.
Retrive slow. I like to hop my bait in slow hops of one foot or so, followed by about 3 seconds of pause in between. Some people drag them on the bottom with success.
I use a "fishfinder" rig which is what I think ya'll are calling a carolina rig. Good thing about this is that the sinker threads freely along the line, and a flounder that picks up the bait and moves will not feel the resistance of the sinker (provided you are in freespool or have the bail open).
Everyone knows this, but mabey some don't Don't set the hook on feeling the "thump" of the flounder hitting. They seize the bait, then work it around in their mouth before swallowing. Premature hooksets will lose you alot of fish. I feel the hit, then count slowly to 10. I will then gently test the bait if I'm unsure it was a flounder (mabey pinfish). If it still feels solid, or I was initially very sure it was a flounder, I will finish the count to 30, reel in slack, and give a firm hookset (braided line helps all of this).
For fighting your fish, my biggest tip is keep tension on him. Flounder have a vicious headshake, and a flexible rod tip and attention to not giving slack will help. Try to keep the head underwater as you will definently see the headshake if you pull it up. Land with a net, as a boga needs an open mouth (headshake anyone?). I get 'em in the net ASAP, often as soon as they appear if I can.
One last thing, I've gone to using artis excluisively for flounder. Mostly for the whole covering more water thing. I like the yum brand "samurai curltails" becuase they have great action at low speeds. I tip with a piece of squid and they never let go. Gulps work well too.
Come on fall run
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Flounder Hooks
I have seen many flounder fishermen fish with #8 treble hooks and some with large single hooks. What is the best size and type of hook to use when fishing with live finger mullet or mud minnows for these babies.
BTW Milkjug, great post, I can't wait to try some of your tips on my next trip when the flounder are running.
Thanks,
Kingfish
BTW Milkjug, great post, I can't wait to try some of your tips on my next trip when the flounder are running.
Thanks,
Kingfish
Re: Flounder
I use carlisle (long shank) 1/0 size, gold color. If I use a regular 1/0 hook, I add 8" to 10" 15 to 20lbs steel lead wire to it.kingfish wrote:If you are fishing with a Carolina or fish finder rig, what is the best type and size of hook to use?
Thanks,
Kingfish
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Milkjug wrote:Only hook through tail if you are keeping your bait still. This is not the most effective way to fish for flounder.
Here's why.... Flounder are the most extreme of the ambush predators. They'll only hit something 4" or so away on most days (they do actively hunt, but this is an exception, not the norm). Once your bait has been sitting in a spot for more than 5 seconds or so, chances are a flounder is not going to just come across it. Trout and reds actively hunt, and the chances are better that they will come across your stationary bait, but not flatfish.
My point is that you should be slowly moving your offering to "scour the bottom" for flounder. The tail rig will be pulling your mullet/killifish backwards, looking unnatural and shortening the life of your bait.
Hook your baitfish through both lips. Include some of the bony portion of the top of the head, but don't put it far enough back to brain your bait. I hook bottom-to-top so the point is riding up because I feel this reduces snags but this probably isn't that important.
Retrive slow. I like to hop my bait in slow hops of one foot or so, followed by about 3 seconds of pause in between. Some people drag them on the bottom with success.
I use a "fishfinder" rig which is what I think ya'll are calling a carolina rig. Good thing about this is that the sinker threads freely along the line, and a flounder that picks up the bait and moves will not feel the resistance of the sinker (provided you are in freespool or have the bail open).
Everyone knows this, but mabey some don't Don't set the hook on feeling the "thump" of the flounder hitting. They seize the bait, then work it around in their mouth before swallowing. Premature hooksets will lose you alot of fish. I feel the hit, then count slowly to 10. I will then gently test the bait if I'm unsure it was a flounder (mabey pinfish). If it still feels solid, or I was initially very sure it was a flounder, I will finish the count to 30, reel in slack, and give a firm hookset (braided line helps all of this).
For fighting your fish, my biggest tip is keep tension on him. Flounder have a vicious headshake, and a flexible rod tip and attention to not giving slack will help. Try to keep the head underwater as you will definently see the headshake if you pull it up. Land with a net, as a boga needs an open mouth (headshake anyone?). I get 'em in the net ASAP, often as soon as they appear if I can.
One last thing, I've gone to using artis excluisively for flounder. Mostly for the whole covering more water thing. I like the yum brand "samurai curltails" becuase they have great action at low speeds. I tip with a piece of squid and they never let go. Gulps work well too.
Come on fall run
Exellent Post....everything you needed to know about catching flounder
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Flounder
A great thread with a lot of great information. Thanks for all the tips everyone. I will buy a few Gamo shiner hooks in 2/0 size and fish some live finger mullet or mud minnows, whatever I can catch, but will also fish soft plastics. In the last couple of years, all the flounder I caught were on soft plastics such as paddle tails, DOA shrimp, and a few on gold spoons and none on live bait, but that is because I mostly fish arties. I would like to catch a limit of flounder (He** A LIMIT OF ANYTHING) at least once in my life, so thanks again for the good tips.
Kingfish
Kingfish
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I agree with Milkjug, that's almost a carbon copy of how I fished for flounder all the years I lived in Corpus. The one difference is how I hooked mine, I always hook them thru the eyes.
If you take the tip of your hook and lay it against the front of the eye sliding it towards the nose area (without poking the eye) you can pass it thru and come out in front of the other eye.
There is like a hollow cavity between the eyes you just have to kinda feel the hook thru there.
They will live on the hook like that till something kills 'em, hopefully flounder.
Oh, if their eye pops out as the hook comes thru just push on it and it will pop back in.
Great post Milkjug!
Blue
If you take the tip of your hook and lay it against the front of the eye sliding it towards the nose area (without poking the eye) you can pass it thru and come out in front of the other eye.
There is like a hollow cavity between the eyes you just have to kinda feel the hook thru there.
They will live on the hook like that till something kills 'em, hopefully flounder.
Oh, if their eye pops out as the hook comes thru just push on it and it will pop back in.
Great post Milkjug!
Blue
Well through most of the summer and early fall, I like to fish for flounder around drain type areas. I'll admit I don't have much luck hook and line fishing for flounder until the first cold front or so. I can still scratch out a fish or two generally if I really try. Find a marsh drain and work it over very well and you may get one.
Once the first cold front hits, it gets a bit easier. The fish aren't "running" yet, they are staging to move in a little while. They will still be in the marsh cuts and drains, but they will be alot more bunched up.
Second or third front should get them moving. This last year was a strange one. We had one huge cold front that got them moving, but then it turned hot again for the next few weeks and it fizzled. The ideal situation is progressively stronger fronts that don't go back to summertime weather.
Once the second or third front comes, they will move to the bay shorelines, then into the passes. So basically I think it's
marsh drains --> bay shores --> passes --> gulf with cold fronts and shorter days pushing them along.
When fishing bay shorelines and passes, I like to key in on structure. With bays, I fish pier pilings, bayou drains, and points. Anything that funnels bait through or around is a good choice. Also things like walls work well because I think the flounder come to them and just bed down instead of turning.
During the full-blown "rodeo" in the passes, I like pier pilings (like 'em alot), drop offs, pockets, and walls. I also catch fish just casting around and covering ground, but they aren't as bunched up as the ones around structure. I've caught them from <1' to ~15' so try different depths too.
The key thing for flounder fishing (as well as any other fish) is to keep moving until you find them. I've gone all day without a bite only to find a 6 foot square area and catch almost a limit from it.
Hope this helps. Today had a touch of fall weather to it and it's getting me ready for some flounder action.
Once the first cold front hits, it gets a bit easier. The fish aren't "running" yet, they are staging to move in a little while. They will still be in the marsh cuts and drains, but they will be alot more bunched up.
Second or third front should get them moving. This last year was a strange one. We had one huge cold front that got them moving, but then it turned hot again for the next few weeks and it fizzled. The ideal situation is progressively stronger fronts that don't go back to summertime weather.
Once the second or third front comes, they will move to the bay shorelines, then into the passes. So basically I think it's
marsh drains --> bay shores --> passes --> gulf with cold fronts and shorter days pushing them along.
When fishing bay shorelines and passes, I like to key in on structure. With bays, I fish pier pilings, bayou drains, and points. Anything that funnels bait through or around is a good choice. Also things like walls work well because I think the flounder come to them and just bed down instead of turning.
During the full-blown "rodeo" in the passes, I like pier pilings (like 'em alot), drop offs, pockets, and walls. I also catch fish just casting around and covering ground, but they aren't as bunched up as the ones around structure. I've caught them from <1' to ~15' so try different depths too.
The key thing for flounder fishing (as well as any other fish) is to keep moving until you find them. I've gone all day without a bite only to find a 6 foot square area and catch almost a limit from it.
Hope this helps. Today had a touch of fall weather to it and it's getting me ready for some flounder action.