Our friend Tony did a pretty good job chasing us all over Estes in his Vibe for 2 days in September, but he noted he had to work extra to keep up.
And that's one heck of a long paddle
I'll add some discussion about braid v. mono/fluoro.
If you fish baitcasters, you pick braid if your reel set up and casting skills are good enough to fish all day without backlash.
A braid backlash can very well end your day - mono backlashes are easier to deal with.
Spinning tackle is easier to fish with braid, but you should fish with a manual-bail mindset. That is, keep your free hand close to the bail, close the bail manually, and turn sideways with the rod to take up line slack before you begin retrieve. This is a good habit to follow even with mono. Using auto-bail-closure is how you get line under your spool and a total nightmare with braid.
On both baitcasters and spinning tackle, shallow spools made for braid load braid better - deep spools are for mono.
Spinning spools that don't lay braid flat can peel off terrible wind knots in a cast.
Fishing braid, you still need to use a mono/fluoro leader for shock tippet - braid does not stretch before it breaks.
If you choose braid, you probably want 20-lb, but note that on a spool, 200 yards of 12-lb fluoro = 350 yds 20-lb braid to fill the same spool.
If I have a spool like that to fill, I like to take pieces of heavier braid and fill the spool halfway, then finish off with my working braid.
On those Japanese spools marked PE line No., multiplying by 10 approximates the braid-pound-test and capacity in meters. PE 1520 spool = 200 meters 15-lb braid.
PE No. 1.5 is approximately 15-lb test, PE No. 2 is approximately 20-lb test (braid)