


The rack will hold 4 boats, and pops off to haul a four wheeler. Few other add ons.....
Couldn't even tell it was there. Going to add some eye bolts to make tie down more convenient.JRB-USMC wrote:Taco, looks like a real nice rig! How did it pull?
I actually spent the day working on my new kayak rack as well. Got the frame welded up and painted, and now I plan to start the rest of it tomorrow. Once it is complete, I will post pictures.
Welcome to the website! I speak from experience when I say "You can learn a lot here."Dmax wrote:This site rocks! So does this thread. First time posting. I've enjoyed lurking.
You can Google some pretty good info on this, but ideally the tongue weight is about 10% of the total weight. Long story short, you are going to want the cooler in front of the axle, but maybe not at the very front (above the hitch). This website has some pretty good info to read: http://howto.curtmfg.com/Pages/index.cfm.25.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;Dmax wrote:I have a galvanized jet ski trailer I want to start to convert. I have a few questions:
I want to put a spot for a cooler and other gear. The cooler will usually be the heaviest.
Should this be placed as far forward as possible. Does a trailer sway or try to tip over if placed in the rear?
I wouldn't suggest having a trailer as your first welding project. If you weld on the metal and not in the metal, your trailer will fall apart on the first trip you take. It isn't hard to do, but some practice is needed before taking on a project like a trailer. I don't do much stick welding as I am not that good with it, but if you use a wire welder you will get the hang of it pretty quick. You are only talking about welding 1/4" thick (at most) metal and a wire welder can do that all day long. Also, if you don't get everything welded square, you are going to go through tires quicker than normal.Dmax wrote:How hard is it to weld? Or, Should I bolt a homemade rack onto it? I was thinking of using 1" square tubing.
I'll add a pic of possible frame.....
Don't be worried about the brand of paint too much. Actually, if it is all galvanize then you don't really have to worry about paint either. If you do want to paint it, you can use any basic primer on the galvanize and it will hold. I would highly recommend primer on top of galvanize, then you can paint on top of the primer. Don't buy an all in one as they aren't as good. I imagine bed liner would be alright, but I don't have any personal experience with that. My only concern with something thick like bed liner is how it can create spots for cathodic corrosion.Dmax wrote:Any preferences for a brand of paint to use on the galzinized?
I might just use primer and then maybe the spray on truck bed liner for the whole thing. .. Still undecided.
Kirk B. wrote:Also of concern!!!! Welding galvanized metal will cause Zinc poisoning! It is serious! Either grind away the galvanizing where you plan to weld (both sides!) or keep a fan behind you to blow the smoke away from you. As I remember from days of yore, drinking copious volumes of milk helps remediate the effects.
That depends on what type of axle you get. Some can be bolted and some have to be welded.Dmax wrote:Thanks for the input JRB and Kirk.
It's been quit a few years but I used to do some welding. Never galvanized, and knew nothing about it.
When I find the right placing for my axels, do you think I should put down a couple of big tacks? Or do you think it's not necessary ? .. I can picture myself hitting a pot hole and throwing the trailer out of square.
Question, how did you mount the orange driveway markers on your trailer? I am needing to do the same thing but would prefer that they be mounted semi-permanently so I can see the trailer position not only while backing it up but also driving down the road. Thanks.NTXFipp wrote:Here she is....
Thanks for the ideas, I will stop by Home Depot/Lowe's on Saturday to look at the items in your set up.NTXFipp wrote:Mine are removable, but you could mount them similarly for a more permanent result. I just used "rubber insulated metal clamps" found on the electrical aisle at stores like Lowes or Home Depot. I got the best fit I could. I'm using two per side, a small one at the base that the marker wont slide through, and one they will above it. You could build up the thickness of the marker with electrical tape and clamp them securely.
Another option you may look at, but I've not tried would be to use a grounding block/lug, also from the electrical aisle. They call them "stranded ADR2 conductor one hole mount." I'd want two of these per side, too.