Sabalo SOT build

[AyJay]

I'll be following my Sabalo SOT build on this thread, with periodical updates.

Sabalo SOT: http://www.jemwatercraft.com/proddetail.php?prod=Sabalo

Aussie built sabalo pic:



I have cut all of the panels and bulkheads and frames and other parts from 4mm 1088 okume ply, and already aligned and glassed the hull panels together. This is an 8 panel hull: 4 bottom panels, 2 sides, and 2 gunwale panels, exluding top decks. A fairly complex build. Panel alignment is pretty key, as you don't want a lot of variation in the shape of the panels over the 15 foot length of the boat so that the hull shape stays true and has proper symmetry.

I'm using US Composites 635 epoxy resin with medium hardener. It isn't quite the same quality as West Marine, but appears to have less amines than West Marine. It's slightly thicker than, but otherwise comparable to System3 epoxy, and quite useable. I'm hoping to get the panels glassed, with a base coat of epoxy, surface sanded and stitched by this weekend so I can start on the stringer system, but that's a lot of work to get done, especially the stitching and alignment.

I'll post up some progress pics when I get a chance.

[4x4kayak2112]

LOOKS GOOD!!!!

[sundevil96]

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

[gerald]

I will watch with interest.

[Night Wing]

That is a great looking boat. Nice lines.

[AyJay]

Panels spliced:

[AyJay]

Still working on this one. I have built the internal framing and stringers, will add pics soon. I'm gluing the battens on them to which the cockpit will eventually be glued during final assembly.

I'm also thinking of using the TKF sticker colors as an inspiration for the final paint scheme, and working on ideas for a really well sealed bow hatch.

[gerald]

We're eagerly awaiting the pictures and paddling report...

[AyJay]

This thing is as complex, component-wise, as the powerskiff I built, so I'm going slow and taking my time and not cutting corners. If I'm putting in this much effort, I'm going to try to get it right the first time. It may be late this fall before it reaches the water. Time will tell. Once I have the stringers and cockpit out of the way and I can start on the hull, the pace should pick up quite a bit.

[Dogpaddlin]

Having just finished a few fillets on an open hull, I do not envy the work you have ahead of you. I do however envy the boat you are building. Very cool!

[Pogo]

AyJay, you can always holler at Mike, aka Light Keeper's Kid, and Chris, aka Mullet Key, to get their if-I-had-it-to-do-over-agains; both have built JEM SOT's, and Sabalo's if I'm not mistaken. Heck, that's what forums like this are FOR, to SHARE that information! Yes, a SOT is a very complex project for a homemade kayak type of boat, don't blame you for wanting to go an extra mile to get it right the first time. As I've said before, it's at least as complex as a stripper, and maybe more so.

I never got to see Chris' boat in person, but have seen Mike's. Dude, he knocked out everyone at the boat builder roundup thing Gerald threw at Inks Lake last spring, and I can tell you right now he'd have at least tied for "best of show" if such an award had been offered .... and the tie woulda been with Birke's stripper canoe.

[AyJay]

Would love a chance to see close up pics or even get a live look at one of the built boats. I have pretty good experience with stitch and glue, so I know what I'm in for, but I've got my filleting down really well, I'm pretty good at mixing the right thicknesses for different applications, and I'm fairly fast with laying glass. My concern is actually the steps close to the end: Rigging it, particularly things that will be difficult to reach or change after the boat is finished, and the hatch I want to build in it that I want to be fairly watertight. I have some ideas for that, but wouldn't hurt to see what others have had luck with.

Right now, I really envy you guys with the simple but effective SINKs. But unfortunately SINKs don't work so great punching through surf, and I'm going to be asking this yak to do that now and then. I'll be posting some more photos this afternoon.

[Night Wing]

Looking forward to some more photos tomorrow morning. I have to work this evening and won't get home until around 1am.

[AyJay]

Sorry for the crappy cellphone camera pics:

Tankwell stringer and frame assembly: Supports tankwell. I'm holding it up at an angle

[AyJay]

Cockpit stringer and frame assembly. Will hold me, hopefully:

[AyJay]

I also bought some 2 part CG approved closed cell foam. I may put that under the tankwell to make the kayak completely unsinkable, and make the tankwell super heavy duty, for a small weight penalty.

[Night Wing]

This is going to be one fine boat. It'll be interesting if you can keep it around it's 55 pound physical weight.

[Light Keeper's Kid]

Looking Great Yes keeping the weight down on a Wood SOT is a big challenge there are so many surfaces that have to be glassed inside and out and adds weight fast.

Mike

[Pogo]

There's also a perfect wealth of information on the web concerning watertight hatches. It's very necessary to achieve waterproof, as opposed to water resistant, hatches on sea kayaks that are actually to be used in rough water for which they are designed, and particularly for paddlers who actively practice skills, rescues, etc. My own boats spend so much time upside down that it's mere routine to make all hatches watertight, and they come very close to being 100%. They have to be; leaky hatches are a major problem in my world.

Hint: One Ocean Kayaks shop tips section shows a method that's become practically the standard that sea kayak builders refer to. http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Wshophtm/Shop20.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[AyJay]

My boat will probably more in the 70lb range. I'm going for complete glass encapsulation on the outside. I want it to be tough.

[AyJay]

Cockpit construction: built inside stringer assembly. Using the frame cutouts I kept as braces for the sidewalls until I get it tacked together.

[AyJay]

The tankwell and the cockpit are now filleted inside. I've got to grind the fillets smooth and then I can glass the inside seams. I use tongue depressors to shape them initially so the griding is just touch up work.

The Dremel with a grinding drum is perfect for this task. Smooth uniform fillets that take glass readily. then I flip em and shape the outside seams for grinding.

pics to follow.

[AyJay]

Finally took my skiff into the shop, and had space in the garage to do some stitching!

[preacher]

SaaaaaWeeeeeeet!

[AyJay]

Got this tip from experienced builders: Using a bit of dowel on the inside intersection of panels under the stitches helps keep the alignment true.



Added the next 2 panels.