Eagle cuda install
-
- Posts: 88
- Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 11:54 am
- Location: Cypress,Texas
Eagle cuda install
I guess I'm the newbie. At 56 that seems a little funny. I have been reading this forum for over a year now,and I cannot tell you how much useful information I have discovered. I would like to thank all of you for your wealth of knowledge. I have fished both fresh and salt water most of my life,but have purchased my first kayak just 3 months ago. I have a Tarpon 120 that I have been outfitting,mostly from information on this site. I love it,and am definitely hooked,very deep. I have become more comfortable with it after every outing. I do have a question,though, that I'm hoping one of you wonderful people can answer. I have just purchased Cuda 168 ffand want to install it in hull. Most of the illustrations Ive seen show it installed with a puck style transducer, This ff has a transom mount skimmer transducer. Have I just made my first big mistake? Wil this transducer work in hull? Do I need to buy a different transducer, or return the unit? I have not opened the package for fear that Academy will not accept a return. I would truly like some help on this matter.
I would like to give you my deepest thanks for accepting me into your forum. I look forward to talking to and hopefully meet many of you. I t has been my experience that almost all people who fish are genuinely good people, and judjing from this site, members of this site seem to be just that. I'm sure a lot of us have crossed paths, especially if you wade fish for flounder at Sea Wolf. Sorry for the lenth of this, and now I'm wondering if I even posted this in the right spot. If I have not please forgive me, and correct me. I am new to this.
I would like to give you my deepest thanks for accepting me into your forum. I look forward to talking to and hopefully meet many of you. I t has been my experience that almost all people who fish are genuinely good people, and judjing from this site, members of this site seem to be just that. I'm sure a lot of us have crossed paths, especially if you wade fish for flounder at Sea Wolf. Sorry for the lenth of this, and now I'm wondering if I even posted this in the right spot. If I have not please forgive me, and correct me. I am new to this.
Baldy, as far as I know a tranducer is a transducer. My Eagle Cuda came with a transom mount bracket and it shoot through the hull just fine. There are a lot of ways to mount them, go to this thread and take a look.
http://texaskayakfisherman.com/forum/vi ... hp?t=65412
http://texaskayakfisherman.com/forum/vi ... hp?t=65412
Hey Baldy Locks,
Don't apologize for your youth. I'm 60. Been doing the kayak thing for years. Nobody's any good at it 'til they're at least 59.
I'm installing my first kayak FF this weekend. It's a Cuda 242. Same footprint, same transducer as yours. It'll take me about 30 minutes more to complete, then it's off to the 5 acre tank about a hundred yards from the house for a test spin. I know the transducer will work as designed, but I need to find out a few things like: Is it weedless? Does it change the yak's tracking and turning characteristics? If things work well, I'll shoot some pics for you. If they don't, I'll slink back under my rock.
My transducer mount is a modification of the trolling motor mount in your owner's manual. If you've got a flush mount rod holder, you'll be able to build it in 45 minutes, and, "Look, Ma. No holes."
Don't apologize for your youth. I'm 60. Been doing the kayak thing for years. Nobody's any good at it 'til they're at least 59.

I'm installing my first kayak FF this weekend. It's a Cuda 242. Same footprint, same transducer as yours. It'll take me about 30 minutes more to complete, then it's off to the 5 acre tank about a hundred yards from the house for a test spin. I know the transducer will work as designed, but I need to find out a few things like: Is it weedless? Does it change the yak's tracking and turning characteristics? If things work well, I'll shoot some pics for you. If they don't, I'll slink back under my rock.

My transducer mount is a modification of the trolling motor mount in your owner's manual. If you've got a flush mount rod holder, you'll be able to build it in 45 minutes, and, "Look, Ma. No holes."
-
- Posts: 88
- Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 11:54 am
- Location: Cypress,Texas
Patt, thanks for the info on the transducer. I think I have enough confidence to attempt it now. I think you and I may have the same sense of humor. But, I think as you age past fifty you develop a sense of humor and begin to get a lot more handsome, right? Look forward to your pics, I have the utmost confidence in you. Good luck. Nice to have met you online.
Baldy Locks,
I'm gonna try to fulfill my promise of pics of my prototype Skimmer mount. I've never posted pics before and I'm absolutely clueless about the process. If nothing else, it oughta be good for a laugh.
The mount came about when I realized that if I mounted my transducer in my hull a small length of cable was going to extend from the deck even if the display was removed for portage or BTB fishing. In what little is left of my mind, the corrosion and highway damage was intolerable. So, I started stealing all the ideas I could use off TKF. Since it was a prototype, no measuring devices were used except the thickness of my hand. I "eyeballed" the deal. Here goes (I hope):
First, 3 8" pieces of 1 1/4 PVC and two els to join them. Don't glue anything until the project is otherwise fininshed.

Place one end in your rod holder and twist the joints until the section on the opposite end is vertical and resting against the hull.

The section extending into the water is much too long, so I cut 3 or 4 inches off and used another el to join the vertical stub to the section I just cut off. I used that final section to mount the Skimmer. I used the transom mount that came with the FF. I clamped it in a vise and bent it until it conformed to the circumference of the 1 1/4" PVC. A hose clamp secured the Skimmer and mount to the PVC stub. Since I didn't want the Skimmer beneath the keel, I used the thickness of my hand to set the depth.

Heres the Skimmer and mount installed:

I drilled 5/8" holes for the cable to enter and exit the PVC, then ran it through the Marine Grade Flex Conduit (also known as garden hose) you see on the starboard gunwhale to the display. Note the locating marks on the PVC in the third picture. They're used for reassembly. When you're satisfied with the fit, disassemble everything, pull your cable and glue the PVC together.

The display is bolted to a double thickness of cutting board fixed to the deck with Velcro.

For the time being, my battery is kept in a dry bag in a recess near the hiney hatch. The entire thing, transducer, battery, and display, takes about 20 secounds to install or remove. It's not for everyone, but it fits my needs.
The Skimmer works fine like this, and it will work well if you decide to mount it inside the hull.
I'm gonna try to fulfill my promise of pics of my prototype Skimmer mount. I've never posted pics before and I'm absolutely clueless about the process. If nothing else, it oughta be good for a laugh.
The mount came about when I realized that if I mounted my transducer in my hull a small length of cable was going to extend from the deck even if the display was removed for portage or BTB fishing. In what little is left of my mind, the corrosion and highway damage was intolerable. So, I started stealing all the ideas I could use off TKF. Since it was a prototype, no measuring devices were used except the thickness of my hand. I "eyeballed" the deal. Here goes (I hope):
First, 3 8" pieces of 1 1/4 PVC and two els to join them. Don't glue anything until the project is otherwise fininshed.

Place one end in your rod holder and twist the joints until the section on the opposite end is vertical and resting against the hull.

The section extending into the water is much too long, so I cut 3 or 4 inches off and used another el to join the vertical stub to the section I just cut off. I used that final section to mount the Skimmer. I used the transom mount that came with the FF. I clamped it in a vise and bent it until it conformed to the circumference of the 1 1/4" PVC. A hose clamp secured the Skimmer and mount to the PVC stub. Since I didn't want the Skimmer beneath the keel, I used the thickness of my hand to set the depth.

Heres the Skimmer and mount installed:

I drilled 5/8" holes for the cable to enter and exit the PVC, then ran it through the Marine Grade Flex Conduit (also known as garden hose) you see on the starboard gunwhale to the display. Note the locating marks on the PVC in the third picture. They're used for reassembly. When you're satisfied with the fit, disassemble everything, pull your cable and glue the PVC together.

The display is bolted to a double thickness of cutting board fixed to the deck with Velcro.

For the time being, my battery is kept in a dry bag in a recess near the hiney hatch. The entire thing, transducer, battery, and display, takes about 20 secounds to install or remove. It's not for everyone, but it fits my needs.
The Skimmer works fine like this, and it will work well if you decide to mount it inside the hull.
Last edited by Patt on Mon Aug 13, 2007 4:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- TxRedbeard
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 1:29 pm
- Location: Rowlett
Hi Baldy Locks,
Since you haven't yet opened the package I thought I'd post with another alternative to consider. Depending on how comfortable you are with the idea of seating the TD inside the hull and running the TD cord (usually with a fairly large hole) up topside, you may or may not be interested in the Humminbird FF using a TD that fits through a scupper hole. Here is a thread that explains how this works overall, and here is the thread where I posted how it worked for me. The PiranhaMax 215 is $89 minus a $15 rebate at Bass Pro right now, and the mail in exchange to the scupper hole TD would cost you another $20.
No matter what brand of FF and type of TD you decide on, I'd recommend the 10 AA battery pack I used (pics in the post I linked to above). It is very compact which makes it easy to mount wherever you want. I bought mine here, but I think they may have the same thing at your local radio shack as well. Rechargeable AAs have a lower voltage than the throw away kind, so 10 of them actually work out to be just about right. Also, the 10 battery holder is actually more compact than the 8 battery holders I've seen because it has half on each side instead of all of them in one long row.
Since you haven't yet opened the package I thought I'd post with another alternative to consider. Depending on how comfortable you are with the idea of seating the TD inside the hull and running the TD cord (usually with a fairly large hole) up topside, you may or may not be interested in the Humminbird FF using a TD that fits through a scupper hole. Here is a thread that explains how this works overall, and here is the thread where I posted how it worked for me. The PiranhaMax 215 is $89 minus a $15 rebate at Bass Pro right now, and the mail in exchange to the scupper hole TD would cost you another $20.
No matter what brand of FF and type of TD you decide on, I'd recommend the 10 AA battery pack I used (pics in the post I linked to above). It is very compact which makes it easy to mount wherever you want. I bought mine here, but I think they may have the same thing at your local radio shack as well. Rechargeable AAs have a lower voltage than the throw away kind, so 10 of them actually work out to be just about right. Also, the 10 battery holder is actually more compact than the 8 battery holders I've seen because it has half on each side instead of all of them in one long row.
-
- Posts: 88
- Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 11:54 am
- Location: Cypress,Texas
- Louis Clarke II
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2007 7:30 am
- Location: Youngsville, NC
-
- Posts: 88
- Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 11:54 am
- Location: Cypress,Texas
TxReadbeard,It,s funny you should mention the Humminbird ff,because I had both of them on the counter trying to make a decision. My head was spinning stressing about the transducer, that now I am not sure why I bought the Cuda. But I did. I had talked with the people at Humminbird and they assured me that it would work in hull. My only concern about going through the scupper hole, is I am afraid I would damage it somehow. MyTarpon does not have a pocket for it. I am still trying to figure out the battery issue, though, and your information about the battery packs is very useful. Thanks for your reply.With a little luck you guys might be able to keep me heading in the right direction.
Thanks for your comment. I've admired your work and posts for a while. Credit for the pics belongs to Capt Jack. His step by step instruction was invaluable.Louis Clarke II wrote:Nice post Patt. Very informative. For someone who was not sure if they could post a picture I must say you hit that out of the park. Real nice job.
Louis & Clarke II
This was my initial attempt at this mount, and although it paddles easily enough (I haven't hit it yet.), my next one will be 5" to 8" longer (the more horizontal stub that crosses the gunwhale, that is). That will put it farther aft and farther under the yak. More protection.
Also, I thought of your rod holder while I was building this. The el just above the flush mount holder may be replaced by a tee. That way I can install one of your rocket style holders.
- Louis Clarke II
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2007 7:30 am
- Location: Youngsville, NC
I would like to try that set-up but one problem....I think it might slow me down.....Patt wrote:Thanks for your comment. I've admired your work and posts for a while. Credit for the pics belongs to Capt Jack. His step by step instruction was invaluable.Louis Clarke II wrote:Nice post Patt. Very informative. For someone who was not sure if they could post a picture I must say you hit that out of the park. Real nice job.
Louis & Clarke II
This was my initial attempt at this mount, and although it paddles easily enough (I haven't hit it yet.), my next one will be 5" to 8" longer (the more horizontal stub that crosses the gunwhale, that is). That will put it farther aft and farther under the yak. More protection.
Also, I thought of your rod holder while I was building this. The el just above the flush mount holder may be replaced by a tee. That way I can install one of your rocket style holders.
- TxRedbeard
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 1:29 pm
- Location: Rowlett
I love it! If I ever decide to locate my battery pack in the tankwell I'll know where to get some "Marine Grade Flex Conduit". Great photos and a very creative way to build a drill free FF installation.Patt wrote:I drilled 5/8" holes for the cable to enter and exit the PVC, then ran it through the Marine Grade Flex Conduit (also known as garden hose)